The Holy Grail for layering curls- you've found it!
So you've consulted your curl stylist, decided to get a fabulous new layered style, and you're wondering - is there anything else I need to know before I have layers cut in my curly hair?
We're here to help you! Everything you need to know about layering curly hair- right here!
Whether you're a curly client or a stylist, these 12 commandments (aka Hot Tips) will guide you on the process of layering curly hair, cutting layers in curly hair and maintaining them post haircut!
Right. Let's go!
'Layering curly hair is both an art and a science'.
Adding layers to curly hair requires two things. Understanding the behaviour of naturally curly hair and knowing how to cut layers into textured hair.
The trick is finding a stylist who can enhance your curl's natural beauty without compromising its integrity.
Curly hair doesn't behave in the same way that straight hair does. In fact, curly hair usually doesn't behave at all!!
Unfortunately, when stylists try to cut curls the same way they would straight hair, the result is often chopped up, unnatural-looking, wonky curls that are usually flat at the top and bulky at the bottom. (Que the triangle head look- more on how to avoid that later).
1. Find a stylist who specialises in cutting curls.
Whether you're wanting a bit more texture, cutting layers for curly, long hair, enhancing definition in your waves, adding subtle layers or removing some of the bulk from your ends, a curl expert will understand how to layer without overdoing it.
And they can provide personalised advice for your curl type.
2. Dry Cutting is ESSENTIAL...
Wet hair doesn't sit in its finished shape, and across one head of hair it is common to have 4-5 different Curl-Patterns. Creating different spring factors for each of them. Cutting Curly hair when its dry will result in the best finished result.
Dry cutting doesn't however mean pre straighten the hair.... It means wash your hair the day of or before your appointment, use minimal product and let it dry naturally. This will show your hairdresser your true natural Curl pattern.
(If you book into a hair salon and they send you strict preparation requirements, PLEASE follow them, you will make the stylist job easy, they will be able to perform their best work and your haircut will be superb.)
3. Don't Over-Texturise
If you're the stylist, remember that less is more when it comes to short, medium or long layered cuts for curly hair. Over-texturising with 'thinning scissors' can lead to frizz and disrupt the natural curl pattern.
If you're the client, and you're worried your hairdresser is becoming a bit 'scissor happy'- asking them to focus on carving out 'bulk' without thinning the ends too much will help you avoid unnecessary frizz at the ends. Unlike straight hair, curls need some weight at the ends to form correctly and hold their shape. *avoid thinning scissors!
4. Maintain the Ends - Long Length Curls.
Having long curly hair means a bit of maintenance post-salon. Don't panic- every new haircut requires some post-salon love!
For long curly layers, make sure that you keep the ends healthy. Hydration is essential here, use Lohy's Drench and Quench Hair Mask for deep conditioning - this allows curls to maintain their shape and avoid turning into frizz. Ultimately, the best way to avoid damage is to avoid hacking the ends too much. Regular trims are essential, but make sure your stylist understands not to overdo it.
5. Respect the Curl Pattern
Don't be fooled; your curl pattern matters!
Each curl has its unique personality; the best way to understand your hair's needs is to know your curl type. If you're unsure, you can do a quick quiz here.
Understanding your curl pattern and the way your curls coil, kink and clump is key to Layering hair. Curly stylists know how to customise your haircut to your specific curl pattern. An expert in layering curly hair will know how to do this.
'Cutting individual curls to ensure the layers blend seamlessly without creating harsh lines means your layered hair will move naturally and effortlessly. Not to mention making styling a whole lot easier!'
There are a few common ways to cut layers in curly hair; most recently, the deva cut is proving to be a popular technique used by stylists for long layered cuts. This method works wonders for curly hair in making sure curls are cut in a way that accentuates the existing curl pattern.
Curly hair shrinks! Depending on your length and type of hair, it's important to remember that any textured hair will shrink when dry. Some curls can shrink up to 80%!
When planning to get a layer cut on curly hair, consider how much your hair contracts after drying. It's better to err on the side of caution and cut less, as you can always trim more if needed. Speak to your stylist about your concerns if you're wanting to keep some length.
7. Embrace the Layers
Curly hair naturally has layers. So it's pointless trying to fight with them! Instead, embrace them. Lean into those uneven, irregular and asymmetrical layers. They're there to give shape and enhance your existing texture. Layers also add volume! Use a combination of Hold-It Hairspray and Root Lift Combs for extra volume. Give a light spray on the ends of your combs and slide them into your hair where you want some lifts, click them together and let the hairspray dry. The result- Volume exactly where you want it and layers that shine!
8. Re-Wet Before Styling
To avoid frizz, always re-wet your hair before styling post-cut. This helps redefine the curls and ensures a smoother, more defined finish. Curly Hair is ALWAYS thirsty. Learn how to refresh your curls post-wash cut here.
9. Use Curl-Friendly Products
After getting layers cut in long curly hair, use products specifically designed for curly hair. Using Australian curl products that are free from SLSs, sulphates and silicones will help your hair recover from any damage and help maintain the health of your curls post-haircut.
10. Avoid Heat Styling
Heat can damage curly hair and disrupt the curl pattern. Embrace your natural texture and avoid heat styling to keep your long layered cuts for curly hair looking their best.
11. Embrace Sleep Protection at Night-time
To protect your layers and prevent frizz, use your Cozy to stop tangles and avoid frizz. You can also gather your hair into a loose ponytail on top of your head before bed. This technique, known as 'pineappling', helps maintain the shape of your curls overnight. Use a silk scrunchie for best results, and a silk or satin pillowcase can also prevent night-time tangles.
12. Let them Bounce
Don't forget the reason you got layers in your Curly Hair.... It was to give your hair shape.
So ditch the scrunchie, the clip or even the hat and make sure you wear that stunning natural hair out and let it draw you some attention.
Remember, a straighty would kill for your worst Curl day.
Remember, the key to perfect curly layers is understanding your hair's unique needs and treating it with the care it deserves. Follow the 12 curly commandments for healthier curls and a simplified hair care routine for layers.
Lohy xx
